There were 11 of us on the dba trip: Ron Bartlett, Brian & Joanna Anderson, Selina Cook, Bo & Maggie Crombet-Beolens, Megan Hall, Steve Lister, Lawrence & Anne Robinson, & Sue Sayers. We ranged from the fully able-bodied through those with minor mobility problems to those needing to use wheelchairs full-time.

Some of the party had been to India before, even this part of India in some cases, whilst others had never visited Asia at all, and the party range in experience form virtual novices to the very well travelled birders. Although some of us had travelled together before no one knew everyone else so the first time most of us met up was for the 10pm Virgin Atlantic flight to Delhi. We had just the one thing in common - a love of birds and wild places.

Depart London Friday 7th March 2003 - Depart Delhi Saturday 22nd March 2003 - Virgin Atlantic flights were around £400 return [Ground price was £1003 for 11 persons with a single person supplement of £171]

Day 01: 8th March - Arrive Delhi International airport at 1145 hr. Transfer to the hotel. Birding Ohkla Barrage. Overnight stay in Hotel Shipra.

Day 02: 9th March - Delhi-Bharatpur - Transfer to Bharatpur (5 hours). Afternoon birding in the park in cycle rickshaws. Overnight in Laxmi Vilas Palace Hotel

Day 03: 10th March - Bharatpur Full days birding in Keoladeo Ghana National Park on foot and cycle rickshaws with a birding guide. Overnight in Laxmi Vilas Palace Hotel

Day 04: 11th March - Bharatpur-Chambal-Agra. Early morning drive to National Chambal Sanctuary (2.5 hr). Boat cruise on the river and bird watching. Drive back to Agra in the evening. Overnight stay in Agra at Mughal Sheraton.

Day 05: 12th March - Agra-New Delhi. Guided tour of Taj Mahal. After lunch drive to Delhi (5 hr). Overnight stay in Shipra.

Day 06: 13th March - New Delhi-Corbett National Park. Drive to Corbett National Park (6-hour drive). Overnight stay in Standard Cottages at Corbett Tiger Camp.

Day 07: 14th March - Corbett National Park. Morning birding at Kumeria. Afternoon visit to Bijrani range forest for wildlife viewing and birding. Overnight stay in a Standard Cottages at Tiger Camp.

Day 08: 15th March - Corbett National Park - Morning elephant or jeep safari through the grasslands and dense forests. Return for breakfast and then spend time by the river for birding. Afternoon birding at Garjia. Overnight stay in a Standard Cottages at Tiger Camp.

Day 09: 16th March - Corbett National Park. Morning visit to Jhirna Range Forest for birding and wildlife viewing. Afternoon birding in the hilly area around Corbett. Overnight stay in a Standard Cottages at Tiger Camp.

Day 10: 17th March - Corbett National Park-Nainital. Drive early morning to Nainital stopping en route at Corbett Falls, Kaladungi. Overnight stay at Arif Castle

Day 11: 18th March - Nainital Full day birding at Kilbury & Saatal. Overnight stay at Arif Castle

Day 12: 19th March - Nainital - Corbett National Park Overnight stay in Standard Cottages at Tiger Camp.

Day 13: 20th March - Corbett National Park -Delhi. Morning birding Corbett National Park. After lunch drive to Delhi (5 hours). Arrive Delhi in the evening. Overnight stay in Shipra.

Day 14: 21st March - Delhi-Sultanpur-Delhi - Full day excursion to Sultanpur Lake for birding. Overnight stay in Shipra

Day 15: 22nd March - New Delhi-onward journey - Transfer to the airport to catch flight home.

A 9-hour overnight flight should exhaust everyone but true to previous experience everyone was ready for birding as soon as we arrived. We were met by Mohit Argawaal our host and guide and members of his staff and taken to the waiting bus.

We drove around northern India in this modern air-conditioned bus that was not converted for use by disabled people. Those of us who needed full assistance had to be carried onto the vehicle. For one person this was achieved by being lifted up at least six steps in his own wheelchair with the footboards taken off. The carry-on chair provided was not suitable. In fact it was a shower chair that could also be used as a commode! The 25-seater bus had had a number of seats removed to allow for storage of wheelchairs and more space although a little more legroom would have helped some. Our driver and his mate were brilliant throughout the trip and, like the staff Mohit had with him, ever helpful. We knew that India would not always have good disabled facilities and Mohit had made sure there was always enough staff on hand to resolve problems through sheer weight of numbers. There were times when the air-conditioning was very welcome.

Brian writes: "India is not a disabled friendly country - or at least that part of northern India that we visited. This fact is greatly counterbalanced by the amount of people available to help out everywhere I moved. For two weeks I hardly pushed the wheelchair, as every time I tried to push a willing hand would be there to dissuade from me wheeling myself. Whilst I found this " a bit much" sometimes I thought it best to go along with the situation especially as there were difficulties of communications through language differences. I found the Indians I met on my travels, through a small part of their wonderful country, both charming and courteous at all times. Nothing was too much trouble in their attempts to make us as comfortable as possible in all the places we stayed or visited.

There is suitable lightweight, foldable equipment for lifting people on and off coaches and more thought should be given to this aspect on future tours. Apart from the first time I was lifted on the vehicle it proved to be a small problem because of the willing help available at all times. The first time I was carried on I was lifted bodily in a most undignified way and the situation showed that you have to be prepared to suffer indignities sometimes, as well as advise others to take your advice and work out better ways to achieve access.

The fact that I spent two weeks in India and considering that - all in all - I had a wonderful time does show that all accessibility problems were solved satisfactorily although there were no venues where I could say that I could go without needing some help from others. This is the big difference between India and the U.K. In Britain I know that I can plan a journey to most areas of the country in the knowledge that I could go alone and be confident that I would manage for myself. This is not a criticism of other countries because those countries have different economic problems as well as differing cultural attitudes and their development priorities may be completely different."

On the way to the Hotel Shipra in Delhi, we had the first view of Okhla Barrage, a huge area of water dotted with ducks formed by a dam on the River Yamuna. From the bus some were able to spot Pochard, Tufted Duck and Shoveler, we did not stop but we first checked in to our hotel, washed and lunched before spending the late afternoon birding on the Barrrage.

The front entrance of the hotel had a number of steps and no side ramp so wheelchair users had to be carried up them. Once in the foyer access was straightforward for getting to the dining room and the passenger lift. There were toilets in the foyer area and these were just accessible in an emergency. [You could not close the cubicle door using a wheelchair].

The guest rooms were upstairs and the lift access was ok. There were some minor problems when leaving the lift and getting to the assigned rooms in that the carpets are sunk into the floor. This could be a hazard because the front castors of a wheelchair could be stopped against the edges of the carpet thus pitching an unwary user out of the chair.

When we were shown the first room it was immediately apparent that the door to the bathroom was too narrow for the wheelchair but there were some rooms that had wider openings. Generally, this room had just enough space to get to the bedside. The bathroom door was just wide enough for the wheelchair at 60cm or just under 24 inches. The bathroom itself was large and the shower was almost "wheel-in" with only a one-inch drop to the shower area. The toilet was a little low and badly situated, square on to the corner. There were no handrails anywhere. The washbasin was a good height and the mirror was the right height and size for a wheelchair user. The wardrobe area was usual height for able-bodied users.

The hotel was generally of a good standard but parts of the room supplied could have been cleaner. Some entertainment was provided during dinner. Taking all aspects into account, and with the exception of the front steps, the hotel was adequately accessible for a wheelchair user.

After lunch, we took the 10-minute drive to the marshy part of the Barrage for birding with local ex-pat British expert "Bill". Bill was very knowledgeable and the birds were legion - herons, ibises, ducks, waders, raptors as well as birds like Bluethroat and Pied Bushchat in the field behind us. Top birds were Black Ibis, Brown Crake, Long-legged Buzzard, & White-tailed Stonechat/ The session was most enjoyable and, one participant finished the day with 58 species!

Next morning we had a 9.00am start for the 5-hour trip to Bharatpur. On route there were plenty of birds, including a Bank Myna, which jumped up to snatch insects from car number plates at a tollbooth. We arrived at the luxurious Laxmi Villas Hotel for late lunch.

This hotel was built as a palace for the brother of a ruler of Bharatpur in 1899. This made the building particularly interesting as a hotel because it has the architecture and Indian decorative style of that area. Thus we were greeted with a beautiful building surrounded by pleasant gardens.

Unfortunately, with regards to access, the route to a ground-floor bedroom was difficult and impossible unaided. To start with there were steps to the foyer, then two sets of steps to a central courtyard and finally once across the courtyard there were some more steps to the guest rooms. Of course these barriers required full wheelchair assistance i.e. up to four people lifting and carrying. This situation was unfortunate in that some could not pop out and do some bird watching without summoning the 'troops' each time.

The rooms were quite large - one with its own fountain! - and the bathrooms were also large. The doorway into the bathroom had a fairly high 'up and over' step which could be negotiated o.k. but it could be difficult for some wheelchair users. In the bathroom itself was the usual 'in the corner' toilet and no handrails, and the washbasin too high. Furthermore the bath was particularly low being at almost ground level.

We ate in the courtyard area which was a novelty, and very pleasant, but just to move there from rooms required assistance. This hotel was manageable provided you can summon adequate help. Because of the overall inaccessibility it did leave one person with the feeling of being trapped - but the magnificence of the old Raj was some compensation.

After lunch most people boarded cycle rickshaws, heading for the Keoladeo Ghana National Park, having picked up the 3 park guides, we headed for the small wetland area, stopping for Stone Curlew and Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker on route. Those who could not manage rickshaws were pushed in their own wheelchairs - calling for some stamina, as the round trips were several kilometres. The monsoon had failed leaving only small areas damp, [A few muddy puddles were being maintained by pumping up groundwater] but although the number of birds was well down, most of the expected species were present. Vast areas of normally flooded scrub had become dry meadowland, however, that did mean that we had Indian Courser and Sociable Plover along with the wetland species, Painted and Black-necked Stork, Sarus and Common Crane, Spot-billed Duck and many waders, while raptors such as Egyptian Vultures. Both Spotted Eagles, Long-legged and Oriental Honey Buzzards soared above. The sharp-eyed guides spotted Dusky Eagle Owl and Spotted Owlet. There were plenty of waders, all the usual ones with plenty of Temminck's Stints, a good flock of Small Pratincole plus many Yellow, Citrine and the larger White-browed Wagtails. We also had first views of Indian Peafowl and Gray Francolin. There were plenty of vocal Golden Jackals and an Asian Rock Python but the resident tigress did not put in an appearance. The cycle rickshaw ride back to the hotel in pitch darkness was thought horrendous by some and a delight by others, so next day we set out early by coach to where the interesting birding started, where most climbed aboard the rickshaws.

he party made for the 'temple area' where an unexpected Smoky Warbler was located, a lifer even for the park guide! We also had Collared Scops Owl. Most took a break for lunch at the hotel while Steve located the Coursers. Some managed the walk to a dry area and they located Indian Courser and the passing Sociable Plover along with many Red-wattled and White-tailed Plovers. The less mobile managed to find all the same species through patient and diligent telescope searches. We also had three species of woodpecker along with Indian Grey Hornbill and the ubiquitous Indian Roller.

Due to the lack of water it was decided to reduce the stay here to 1½ days instead of the 3½ originally planned; we had just about cracked the available birding, anyway. This flexibility is a feature of dba trips. Often we need to adapt an itinerary through access considerations but this allows flexibility to get more birds too! It was fortunate that the ground agent was so helpful and ready to do anything he could to ensure a successful trip for all.

Next morning, we drove to the National Chambal Sanctuary, a wide river with equally wide sandy areas to each side. We soon had Indian Skimmer, Steve's first lifer for the trip! Then Black-bellied and River Tern, Comb Duck, Greater Flamingo and 4 species of cormorant. Negotiating the sand was no mean feat for those using wheelchairs but with lots of manpower we were all able to get aboard the boats and no one missed out on the fascinating site.

The boat trip with views of the highly endangered Gangetic Dolphins was most enjoyable, except for one of our number who was overcome by heat, spending the return journey under a collapsing umbrella, and the next couple of hours recovering in the air-conditioned coach. On the river were a number of small islands with cormorants and, in one case, several hundred Small Pratincoles.

After a picnic lunch under canvas and further birding we went on to Agra, where we were booked into the luxurious Sheraton Hotel.

Most rooms boasted four-poster beds and an intriguing sort of couch up against the wall with a large round cushion. In some opinions however, the hotel was a triumph of style over substance. But there was a lounge with a big screen to watch the cricket World Cup and extensive grounds with Shrikra, Coppersmith Barbet, babblers and various warblers as well as rather tame Mongooses.

This was a modern hotel with a grand entrance, large chandeliered foyer and no lifts - except for a small service lift. The first room offered to one wheelchair user had, yet again, a bathroom with an entrance door too narrow for the wheelchair. The bedroom had an extra problem in that one of the single beds was at ground level. This would have been a problem for anyone who could not rise from such a low level - which was most people in our party!

The person who needed it was very quickly given a much larger room that was fully accessible throughout. Once again there was a virtual wheel-in shower and the toilet was situated comfortably away from the wall. There were no handrails - of course. In this instance the lack of 'disabled' facilities was a surprise in that the Sheraton is American owned international chain and one would have assumed that it would meet American accessibility standards.

This lack of disabled awareness was further highlighted because wheelchair users had to go through the kitchens to the dining room, and there was no way they could use the bar. It was also necessary to provide a temporary ramp on a staircase to the room, as the lift did not stop at the floor to the room. To sum up; better mobility was achieved throughout the public areas of the hotel but it was disappointing to find, in such a modern building, that some assistance was required to use all the facilities.

The following morning most of the party went to the Taj Mahal, which is as striking as all the photographs, on the river behind was a good selection of gulls, terns and waders, with a pair of Lesser Adjutant Storks flying through. [The absentee from this excursion was suffering an 'Imodium moment' something that 10 of the party of 11 suffered at some stage during the trip. As bo said: Well, I've eaten Chicken Kiev in Kiev, French fries in France and Irish stew in Ireland, so it was inevitable that I should get Delhi Belly in Delhi!

As the Taj Mahal was included in our itinerary even though we were on a birding tour, it is worth commenting on accessibility. It is a must for anyone visiting Northern India because it is beautiful and has a special, unique character. As expected wheelchair users had to be carried up and down several small flights of steps to get to the main long view of the Taj. Beyond that it was possible to get up to the main building but from there it would be impossible to go any further with a wheelchair. There were no obvious signs of disabled access but as one of our group pointed out there was heavy garden machinery used for maintaining the grounds and gardens so presumably there is a pathway past the main entrance area. Mind you security was very tight and such places were probably out of bounds.

It was then a 5-hour trip back to Delhi and the Hotel Shipra for another overnight stay. As one of the party remarked - the driving out here is the wildest I have seen, no wonder the driver had a uniform with brown trousers. What with bullock carts, cycles, motorcycle rickshaws, scooters, tractors, sometimes with a load three quarters of the way across the road, heavy lorries and wandering cattle it was wise not to look out of the front window.

Next morning, we were off on the 6-hour drive to the Jim Corbett National Park, following a nice packed lunch en route, we arrived in mid-afternoon, spending the rest of the day birding in the ample grounds of Tiger Camp owned by our tour operator. The camp had a block of 4 rooms with patio and a balcony where it was possible to 'scope' a cotton silk tree which contained a host of birds including Chestnut-tailed Starling and a selection of Drongos and bulbuls. Interrupting dinner, we went to see Brown Hawk Owl by torchlight. It was good to be somewhere long enough to unpack!

The accommodation at Tiger Camp consisted of a number of cabins surrounding an open, covered dining area. There was also a house with verandas that had four en-suite rooms. The paths to the cabins and dining area were partly concreted with some rough areas and steps. To get to the dining area it was necessary to negotiate two sets of four steps.

On arrival one cabin had no running water and the washbasin had a hardboard front to it. This made it impossible to get close to the sink with a wheelchair. The rest of the cabin was reasonably accessible including an almost wheel-in shower area. The water problem necessitated moving to a room in the house with the verandas and this proved to be much better accommodation altogether. The bedroom was large and the bathroom was very large with another wheel-in shower. Amazingly though, yet again, the bathroom door was only just wide enough for a wheelchair. In fact it was probably too narrow for most wheelchairs.

The disadvantage of the house was that one had to be carried up a short flight of steps. Generally, Tiger Camp is not very accessibly because of the rough paths, the steps to the dining area and the slopes from the dining area to rooms. This was unfortunate because the setting of the camp is ideal and very pleasant. With some upgrading of the paths and alteration of access to the dining area it would be very easy to improve general mobility and make this an idea base. Once again the masses of help available made the stay at Tiger Camp enjoyable but it was annoying for those needing wheelchairs not to be able wander at will.

At 6.30 next morning, we met our bird guide for the rest of the trip, Rattan and his ever-smiling son Locash who joined the helpers. We boarded the three Gypsies [4WD vehicles], with the aid of piled up Coca Cola crates and lots of muscle power. As with most of the next few mornings we slowly drove down the main road where there were plenty of birds, particularly in the cotton silk trees. The lack of vulture species, so far, was relieved by Indian White-backed and Long-billed in the same tree and later, Redheaded flying through the forest. Red Jungle Fowl scurried away at the approach of the first jeep, with their relatives featuring large on every menu it was no wonder they were fast on their feet. Some also had a glimpse of Kalij Pheasant. In the higher altitude it was decidedly chilly, first thing, but it warmed up nicely later on. The birds were more Himalayan, to boot.

Having completed the formalities at the gate, the first bird we saw was a Sirkeer Malkoha, spotted by Steve. Due to the presence of tiger, we were now not allowed out of the jeeps but after some distance we arrived at the visitor centre, with café, shop and toilets, an Indian Pied Hornbill flew over. A feature of this area was semi dried up rivers with large boulders and varying amounts of water, which obviously fill during the monsoon. One of these ended a 40-year quest by Bo to see Wallcreeper, when a pair was spotted flitting from rock to rock; the excitement gave him an instant headache! These areas were also good for White-capped and Plumbeous Water Redstart, some also had Long-billed Pipit on a grassy area. Sue spotted an Emerald Dove, probably the only one of the trip, although Yellow-footed Green Pigeons were common. During our trips at Corbet there were a variety of woodpeckers and barbets with the other Pygmy Woodpecker, and Himalayan Flameback being particular highlights. Back at the camp Steve, Rattan and my Ron paid a short visit to the River Kogi, 200 yards from the Camp.

The afternoon session was around local roads, following a visit to the barrage near Ramnagar, the local town.. A woodland stop found Flower-peckers and the stunning Western Crimson Sunbird.

Next morning it was a visit to the Shirna Forest. It was a good day for soaring raptors with Eurasian Griffon, Cinereous Vulture, White-eyed and Oriental Honey Buzzards also Black and Woolly-necked Storks, while an area of Eucalyptus yielded Maroon Oriole. Ticks started to appear against the warblers including the local Greater Whitethroat, Western Crowned and the stunning Grey Hooded.

Next morning, the 90-minute jeep ride to Kulmeria on the River Kogi was notable for brilliant views of both Brown and Tawny Fish Owls plus Changeable Hawk Eagle and Black Eagles. At the river Red-billed Blue Magpie was spotted on the far bank along with Brown Dipper and Spotted Forktail and another Wallcreeper, also 3 species of kingfisher including our only views of the large Crested Kingfisher. A stop on the way back was notable for Blue-throated Barbet, Grey-winged Blackbird and more warblers. We sat under parasols like Victorian colonials being brought cold drinks whilst we watched stunning birds.

Next morning some took a return trip to the Bijrani Forest, whilst others took a quick visit to the river for Goosander, Ashy-crowned Finch Lark and the spectacular sight of 4 male peafowl flying off.

We set off at midday for the 2½ hour trip to Nainital in the Himalayan foothills. Most of us were in jeeps birding along the road; Megan received a green spot on the forehead from students celebrating Holi, at a friendly roadblock. After about an hour we stopped for lunch at Corbett Falls at the far end of the National Park. This was an excellent place, we were soon clocking warblers, flycatchers, minivets with Tickell's and Long-billed Thrushes in deep undergrowth, also a glimpse of the Ping-Pong ball sized Chestnut Headed Tesia. A White-rumped Sharma seen in the stream by the car park was a trip highlight for some. A newly installed "kissing gate" which was completely inaccessible to wheelchairs could have ruined this side trip. However, Mohit's staff and some charming Indian tourists lifted Brian bodily over the gate.

Shortly, we began to climb the Himalayan hills, where it was advisable not to look over the precipice at the roadside, which dropped sheer, sometimes for 2 miles. One party were left behind as their jeep had a leak in the cooling system necessitating frequent stops for cooling and topping up. However, they did get Himalayan Griffon, Rufus-bellied Eagle and the Commonest Laughing Thrush - Streaked by way of compensation. Others managed Brown-capped Woodpecker and Barred Tree-creeper whilst waiting for the rest to catch up.

As the altitude increased, it got progressively colder until we arrived at the Arif Castle Hotel. This hotel is not really geared to visitors at this season and extra blankets and hot-water bottles had to be requested to supplement the inadequate heating.

The town of Nainital is picturesquely situated 6,500 feet up in the foothills of the Himalayas. The journey from Corbett Park to the Arif Hotel was a breathtakingly spectacular drive. The hotel is situated in the town and as a result the view from the hotel was uninteresting and in one instance two guests looked on to a blank wall. The front entrance to the hotel was negotiated easily as only a small ramp was required to enter the large foyer area. The very first impression of entering the hotel was to discover how cold it was. When we got to our ground floor rooms we again were very disappointed to be without heating and without hot water.

Many disabled people have problems keeping warm because of circulatory problems and this is especially so for people unable to walk. It was doubly disappointing to not have adequate heating. We stayed two nights and we had to wait until the second night before reasonable heating was supplied to our rooms. The water for showering and washing was never hot enough.

The room was spacious and the bathroom and a virtual wheel-in shower. Once again there were no handrails fitted and similarly the toilet was positioned close into the corner of the bathroom. Even though rooms were on the ground floor there was still a flight of stairs from the foyer. A ramp was provided and help was available to use it. In comparison with the other hotels and accommodation it was possible to push oneself out of this building and go around to the garden of the hotel (such as it was) and see a few nice birds [Tits, tree-creepers, thrushes & warblers all sitting in one tiny bare-branched spindly tree].

We also had to eat our meals in our rooms because the lift to the dining room was out of order. One did not get the impression that any attempt was made to have it working for our visit. In summary it was very disappointing at this hotel. No one should be expected to put up with this standard of service.

After a breakfast the group set off for Saatal and its higher altitude birds. In the hotel grounds were Bar-tailed Tree-creeper, White-tailed Nuthatch and 5 species of tit. On the way we came upon a large flock of Eurasian Crag Martins but unfortunately at the pleasant spot booked for the morning there was very little of note, just a Rufous-cheeked Laughing-thrush and Himalayan Bulbuls but a pair of Great Barbets did their best to provide entertainment and the ever present Hume's Leaf Warblers gave everyone a chance to instantly recognise any turning up back home. A chef from one of Mohit's nearby Lodges provided a very nice meal.

Four lads who had been touring India for 3 weeks joined us and some of the party went with them birding on foot as well as from the vehicles. They worked as a team, conjuring birds from every tree, bush and patch of grass taking birding to a new level, but, as Ron reported, they were very tolerant to an OAP with matching eyesight. Starting at Saatal Lake, we were soon shown all manner of redstarts, flycatchers and warblers. On a patch of heathland with thick hedges and trees the lads really excelled with 2 accentors, Rusty Cheeked Scimitar Babbler, the attractive Russet Sparrow and several warblers including Pallas's, which was forgotten in the rush. We finished at a thicket behind a café with Tickell's Thrush and Eurasian Blackbird. After Lemcars (lemonade by Coca Cola) and Wood Pigeons above, we left the lads and proceeded to a valley with a disabled unfriendly steps down to a level path with a reasonable surface with a ditch and sloping woodland to the left, grassland, bushes and woodland to the right. Steve soon spotted Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler in undergrowth round a large pipe, Grey-sided Bush Warbler and Golden-spectacled Warbler. There was a good spot further along where a stream flowed into a lake. Back near the road we had good views of Chestnut-headed Tesia.

The rest of the party worked their way along a similar route and were rewarded by a number of new warblers and glimpses of Tesias as well as few of the species seen by the other party.

The next morning was a cold early start for Kilbury, a well-known birding location, spotting White-throated Laughing Thrush and Eurasian Jay along the way. It was very cold and there were very few birds, just several Tits, Rufus-bellied Woodpecker and Rufus Sibia, a striking bird that frequented a Rhododendron with flowers of similar colour. We deliberately stayed in this isolated spot to avoid the Holi celebrations, which might have found us covered in dye, but, by lunchtime, things had calmed down sufficiently for us to venture into populated areas.

As we arrived at Pangot for lunch a Lammergeier greeted us, floating imperiously low above our heads with a supporting cast of Rufous-bellied Niltava and Rusty Sparrows. Lunch was cooked by the chef of the previous day then we moved on, pausing for a flock of Plain Mountain Finches in a tree on the edge of the village.

Due to difficulties some people had at the Arif Castle and the cold, it was decided by a majority to cut short the stay and to go back to Corbett Tiger Camp for the night. However, the twitchers and Locash had a good afternoon in the Mogoli Valley with good high altitude species. Not fancying a long, cold road in the jeeps the majority went back on the coach. An unscheduled stop was rewarded with Rock Bunting in a meadow.

The next morning most of the party took another drive around the locality catching up on species missed in the previous visit. Then back to the coach for the return trip to Delhi. En route Steve and Mohit were incredibly fortunate to see a pair of McQueen's Bustard flying over fields just before reaching Delhi.

The original itinerary included a day excursion to Sultanpur Lake but it was felt not to be suitable for the majority of the group. Three of the party went to Sultanpur whilst the rest spent a morning shopping, looking at the city centre of Delhi and then spending a fruitful afternoon back at the Barrage.

Early morning, the three set out by car to the State of Haryana 90 minutes away. The car park at Sultanpur was flat with a toilet with wide entrance in one corner, there were two steps up to the Visitor Centre, but it appeared that one could avoid these. There was an observation tower, which had stairs to climb but there was a level dirt path to the centre of a marsh to where we saw Steve's "best bird of the trip". To the right was a brick-paved bund, which, 50 yards hence overlooked a further marsh. This bund went two and a half miles round finishing with a 400-yard flat dirt path back to Visitor Centre. The party walked right round the bund, watching Storks, Herons, Cranes, ducks etc. There were Pipits (Paddy-field and Blyth's) and Larks on the drier areas. About a mile further on the brick surface broke up, access to a dry meadow could be gained through a hole in the fence, leading across to another huge dry area with Indian Courser and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse more pipits and larks - Crested, Oriental Sky, Bimaculated and, after a walk to the fence, Hume's Short-toed. Returning to the bund after looking across a marshy area, they birded from the tower then onto the path to the centre of the marsh. Steve spotted a Demoiselle Crane with a flock of Common Cranes. He proclaimed it his best bird of the trip, even beating the bustard. The restaurant was 50 yards from the main gate. After a long lunch they birded around the Visitor Centre the star of which was a Common Hawk Cuckoo aka Brain-Fever Bird. Half a mile along the track there was a true birders' paradise. The pool by the track was swept by Pied Avocets, but there were hundreds of geese, ducks, waders and hundreds of Purple Swamphens, all overlooked by a Steppe Eagle, on two sides as far as could be 'scoped.

The evening was spent at Mohit's home as he kindly invited us all to dinner. After a delightful evening, we returned to the hotel to pack for the return journey.

The trip was hectic at times, with the succession of 6.30am starts made earlier still by some people needing a good hour to prepare, but everyone was cheerful and, subject to a few health issues, everyone had a great time. The organisation by Mohit and Asian Adventures was first class. The hotels were mostly comfortable and in some cases luxurious but some of us had difficulty with the strange food. A never-ending supply of bottled water was greatly appreciated too. The birding tour of northern India was well worth the trip in spite of the difficulties encountered. The birding was wonderful and the diversity of Indian culture and architecture was a wonder to behold. All the Indian people we met were always very helpful and courteous and even those with very restricted mobility would be happy to go back despite the basic access problems.

The longest trip list accumulated was 339 species, one person clocked up over 250 lifers, and most had around 300 birds. The full list will follow.